Fact Sheet on Cycling in Ukraine
Contributed by Ivo Miesen
Groups of cycletourists are no uncommon sight on Ukraine's roads. Solo cyclists create more surprise. During the Soviet period Crimea was a highly popular spring destination for cycleclubs. Cycletourists especially those covering serious distances, are regarded as sportsmen with all the respect usually attached to them.
Regions
Best for cycling are Crimea and the Carpathian mountains. Crimea has enough sights to keep you busy during several visits. The west of the country is easier to reach from Western Europe.
Time
Especially when cycling near the Black Sea coast summer should be avoided. It's way too hot and crowded during summer. Spring and autumn are the best periods. Nights can be chilly in may and octobre.In octobre the amount of daylight is limited.
Roads
Away from the main urban centres M-roads are ok for cycling, although they sometimes are a bit busy. The M3 and the M5 are proper motorways, the other M-roads are more comparable with British A-roads or French N roads.
Intermediate T-roads are of varying quality. Especially at the borders of two oblasts the road surface can be apalling. Despite that they are the best choice for a cyclist who is not in a hurry. Potholes and bads cobble roads are common in towns and villages.
Dangers
Ukrainian cardrivers don't give a lot of space to cyclists. Luckily the shoulders of the main roads are of hard-packed sand so you can evade cars and lorries without risking your wheels.
Dogs are more of a nuisance. Several vicious dogs will pursue you untill you are well away of their territory. Allways carry a full waterbottle to cool them off.
In urban areas watch out near busstops. If someone hails a minibus, the minibus will swerve out of the line of traffic immediately.
Supplies
Food is easy to get in Ukraine. Shops and kiosks are everywhere. Most of them are open during weekends and in the evenings. Best places to buy food are the village and small town markets where you can buy agricultural products directly from the farmers. On main roads you will often see farmers selling their products by the side of he road. You don't need to carry more than half a days supply of food with you, a rare treat for cyclists used to German shop closing times.
Spare parts for your bike are hard to get. A very basic selection can sometimes be found at larger markets, sports shops or carparts shops. Usual tyre size is 37-622, although MTB-tyres gain popularity. Tubes usually have sclavarand valves.
For disaster repairs count on the art of improvisation practised by Ukrainians. Repairs which are impossible in the West can be done by Ukrainian craftsmen.
Sleeping
Smaller towns have enough accomodation in the 30-100 grivna per night range. Along motorways lot's of new hotels are built. In touristic regions there's plenty of accommodation. Usually they have a secure place for your bike.
Wild camping is quite common. Just leave the road and hide yourself behind some trees. Farmers won't be surprised to see you in the morning.
Bike
A sturdy tourer or a roadworthy mountainbike is the right bike for touring in Ukraine. Equip your bike with not too small semi-slicks (37-50mm). Full suspension is not needed for those who don't want to follow the mountain trails in Crimea or the Carpathian Mountains. Although central-Ukraine doesn't have high hills, steep climbs out of river valleys are quite common. So low gears and good brakes are necessary.
Maps
Excellent maps are on sale in bookshops throughout the country. 1:200.000 topographical maps printed by Kievskaya Voyennaya Kartograficheskaya Fabrika. Check the dates of the maps since older series with now defunct roadnumbers are still on sale. The ones mentioning regional roads under T-numbers are the good ones.
New 1:250.000 road maps (www.ukrmap.com.ua) are good, but lack the altitude and profile information the topographical maps offer. They do, however, indicate some hotels and campsites. On the back of these maps are the maps of the centre of the towns of the region.
Public transport:
Long distance trains accept bikes as acompagnied luggage in 3rd class (platzkart) carriages. Since a bike and panniers usually are heavier as permitted you'll also need a ticket for excess luggage. Withot the frontwheel 3 bikes fit in one 'compartment' of a platzkart carriage, on the uppermost luggageboard.
In longdistance busses it's usually possible to transport your bike, again with a surcharge for excess luggage. citybusses and minibusses usually don't accept bikes. On the medium distance it depends on the type of bus and the mood of the driver. The new Mitshubishi busses serving the Yalta-Simferopol connection only have space for one disassembled bike. |
