Hiking in Ukraine's Carpathians
below: enjoy many more pictures like this in our Carpathian photo galleries: Hutsulschyna, Hoverla Mt., Stiy Mt., Yavirnyk Mt.
Gentle but wild Carpathian mountains |
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The Ukrainian part of the Carpathians are very hikeable mountains, with fairly gentle relief and no inaccessible peaks. Yet they are among the wildest mountains in all of Europe. They have not yet been modernized by hiking trails, mountain refuges, campgrounds, RV parks, trams, and other infrastructure typical of U.S. and European nature reserves and national parks. Wild bears and an occasional wolf have even been known to roam in the woods (but they avoid people, of course!).
 Learn about week-long guided treks through the highest mountains of the Carpathians.
Trails and selecting a route
For the most part hikers hike on logging roads and unmaintained, unmarked footpaths. Consider the following principles:
- If there is a mountain or other place of interest, there must be a way to get there that is not too difficult, so hiking trips do not need to be completely planned out in advance
- Trails are often not what they appear to be on the map, so it is best to ask locals or experienced hikers before setting out on a trail you have found on the map
These principles make hiking in the Ukrainian Carpathians a unique experience, compared to other mountains like the Alps or the Slovakian Tatras, which are also part of the Carpathian mountain system. Rarely do people just buy a map and hike out to a place they have never been in the Ukrainian Carpathians; usually they either have a guide who knows the way or they get special directions from locals or hikers who have been their before. If you have questions about hiking in the Carpathians, the TryUkraine travel forum is a great place to discuss them. The administrator and some other members are experienced Carpathian hikers.
- If you read Ukrainian, Karpaty.com.ua is likely the best resource for hiking routes, public transportation, and other practical information on the Carpathian region.
- Another great resource on the Carpathian region (in English, Ukrainian, and Polish) is the Ukrainian-Polish Tourist Portal
Maps
Maps are available in bookstores around Ukraine and at kiosks and stands in and around the Carpathians. All maps are in Ukrainian. However, take note... topographical maps from 1992 can also be downloaded at http://www.karpaty.com.ua/?chapter=maps. These are, I believe, the very same detailed maps you would be able to buy in Ukraine.
Bugs
There are generally very few mosquitos and ticks in the Carpathians, but small flies can sometimes be annoying. They usually don't bite, but just lick up sweat.
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Filling up a water bottle at a mountain spring |
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Water
The Carpathians have an abundance of water. Springs are frequent and are marked on topographical maps. Farmers, shepherds, and foresters often make troughs or makeshift spigots to make it easier to drink from springs along mountain roads and trails (see right). Nonetheless, bring at least two or three liters of water per person for overnight hikes, and more if you will be hiking along ridges, where there may be no springs nearby. In the summer it occasionally gets quite hot.
(see link for weather map) The Chornohora ridge (which includes Hoverla and several other peaks above 2000 m.) and other high mountains above 1400 m. are well known for their foul weather. Be prepared for storms at any time of year. Lightning, hail, and high winds can be especially scary. If there is the slightest possibility of bad weather during the night, do not camp on ridges. Avalanches sometimes happen above the treeline, and temperatures can drop to -20°C and lower in the winter. The highest areas of the Carpathians are as deadly as the much higher Caucasus mountains. Amateur hikers perish each year from foolish behavior and unpreparedness in the mountains.
Rules and Regulations
Compared to the Crimean Mountains, there seem to be fewer rules regarding camping and hiking in the Carpathians, and the mountains are rarely if ever patrolled. The only place I know of where camping is forbidden is the nature reserve on the east side of Hoverla. There are a number of other small nature reserves scattered around the Carpathians where camping is also likely forbidden.
Mountain Rescue Service
The Carpathian mountain rescue team are not government police to be afraid of, but rather mountain enthusiasts who are paid by the government to advise and rescue hikers. They appreciate being informed about where and when you are planning to hike and are available to give advice on where to hike, inexpensive places to stay, transportation, and equipment rental.
ADDRESS OF POST |
NAME OF POST CAPTAIN |
POST PHONE NUMBER
(dial 8 before calling long distance) |
CAPTAIN'S HOME PHONE NUMBER
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Ivano-Frankivsk
vul. Franka, 6 |
Oleh Yaroslavovych Kovtun |
(03422) 22165 |
(03422) 68632 (neighbor) |
Chernivtsi
vul. Turets'ka, 14 |
Іvan Vasylyovych Kryklyvets |
(03722) 23849 |
(050) 528-16-45 (cell) |
Lviv
vul. Zaliznychna, 16 |
Mykhaylo Volodymyrovych Yavorivskyy |
(0322) 395470
kpcpoc@hotmail.com |
(0322) 395070
(067) 787-56-17 (cell) |
Slavske
vul. Ustynovycha, 2 |
Mykhaylo Vasylyovych Synevudskyy |
(03251) 42102 |
(03251) 42503 |
Verkhovyna
vul. Zhabyevska, 94/7 |
Vasyl Oleksiyovych Kobylyuk |
(03432) 21941
skala2002@ukr.net |
(03432) 21971 |
Vorokhta
vul. D. Halytskoho, 41 |
Mykhaylo Vasylyovych Savchuk |
(03434) 41149 |
(03434) 41397 |
Kosiv
vul. Nad Hukom, 15a |
Petro Ivanovych Zadorozhnyuk |
(03478) 21677 |
(03433) 93276 |
| Osmoloda village, Rozhnyativskyy rayon |
Ihor Yakovych Lyuklyan |
(03474) 36247 (post office) |
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Yaremche
vul. Dachna, 6 |
Vasyl Hryhorovych Likhatskyy |
(03434) 22208 |
(03475) 44165 |
* This same list can be found in Ukrainian at karpaty.com.ua. |
